Et tu, Momofuku
Momofuku’s new (four days?) flavors:soft serve:
new flavors!
rosemary
apricot
lemon verbena
blackberry
The thing about Christina Tosi’s ice cream is that the names are 100% honest. When she says the flavor of something is cereal milk, that doesn’t mean she’s evoking the experience of drinking cereal milk or alluding to the flavor of cereal milk—that shit tastes exactly like cereal milk, only more so, and like identifiable kinds of cereal milk. So when she puts together rosemary flavored ice cream, it’s not rosemary-scented, or mingled with other flavors. It tastes like rosemary, so much so that it’s not sweet. Instead, she couples it with the quality one would normally associate with rosemary: saltiness. It’s salty, rosemary-flavored ice cream. This makes sense, when you think about it. Rosemary is best when coupled with salty and some fatty meat, like lamb, so the ice cream here just stands in for fat. But you’re not thinking about that when you’re eating it. You’re just thinking, holy shit, this tastes like rosemary. It’s brilliant, and delicious, and I didn’t really like it, but I want to eat it again.
6 months ago
